Check Your Thread: Sewing More Sustainably

• #195: Replay – Introduction to Pattern Hacking

  Have you ever tried pattern hacking? By which I mean, making changes to a sewing pattern to create a garment that looks slightly, or wildly, different to the original design. This episode is a wide ranging introduction to the topic. Whether you are new to this practice, or are a more seasoned ‘hacker’, by the end of this you should feel emboldened by the infinite possibilities! Support the podcast over on Patreon! One way of thinking about pattern hacking is by breaking it down into these three approaches: Pattern-first - that is Choosing a pattern you own and considering how you can alter it to come up with a different look Style-first - that is finding inspiration for a garment from elsewhere, then looking through your patterns to find a good candidate to hack to get close to that inspiration. Frankensteining - taking two existing sewing patterns, or the parts of existing sewing patterns, and splicing them together to create a different looking garment.  My Fibre Mood Ermine/Norma Franken-garment is an example of taking the sleeve piece from one pattern and the bodice from another to create a new look. Suggested equipment for pattern hacking: Large format paper / pattern cutting or drafting paper / the dot and cross type or plain. Also consider large sheets of paper from an art shop or printing shop, the back of wide rolls of wrapping paper or rolls of paper from a business that regularly prints out plans and so on Some kind of ruler or set square (a metre or yard ruler is also super helpful) Pattern weights or pins Sharp pencils  Paper scissors Some kind of tape such as scotch, masking or washi tape Tape measure

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• #194: Replay – Fabric First with Rachel Kirby

  Could you sew only with second hand fabric? No more fabric shopping, only thrifting and receiving donations. Would that feel frustrating, or would it unlock some inner creativity and resourcefulness? Space scientist and passionate maker, Rachel Kirby, sews almost exclusively within this limitation, and she shares how and why it works for her. Support the podcast over on Patreon! Rachel Kirby can be found on her website, @fibre.and.space on Instagram and @GeoPlaneteer on Twitter. Rachel’s self-designed Solar System jumper went viral! Rachel was inspired by Samantha @pippy_eve on Instagram to try her hand at sewing her first garment by using the Justine skirt pattern by Ready to Sew and some cotton fabric she found at an op shop. The only piece of from-the-bolt fabric Rachel has used for herself was to make some Arenite pants, pattern by Sew Liberated. Image source: Rachel Kirby Listen to Episode 69: Making Mindfully with Judy Williment-Ross. Rachel’s TNT (‘tried and tested’, or ‘tried and true’) patterns: Hinterland dress pattern by Sew Liberated Gilbert top pattern by Helen’s Closet  Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet  Image source: Rachel Kirby

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• #193: Replay – Introduction to Garment Fabrics

  A garment project that fails because it’s made from unsuitable fabric is both heartbreaking and costly. But navigating the selection available in fabric shops and online can feel overwhelming, particularly if you’re new to garment sewing, or have recently returned after some years. So in this solo episode, we’re going back to the basics of fabric. We’ll be laying the foundations on which to build our knowledge of fabric types, and what garment styles each fabric is suitable for. Support the podcast over on Patreon! The downloadable PDF version of this episode, which includes lots of additional information, tips and images, can be found in the CYT online shop.

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• #192:  Replay – Stashes and Spaces with Shams el-Din Rogers

  How does the space we create in affect the resources we collect, and vice versa? And why did the Ikea look become the default, acceptable aesthetic for spaces dedicated to sewing? Textile activist Shams el-Din Rogers and I have a fun and thought-provoking conversation about fabric stashes, storage and space. As always, Shams brings her insight and wisdom as we explore many of the implications of these topics as they relate to sustainability, and we compare notes as an American and a European.  Support the podcast over on Patreon! Find Shams el-Din Rogers on Instagram @shamseldinrogers. Listen to her on other episodes of CYT: Ep.#32: Textile Activism with Shams el-Din Rogers  Ep.#49: Sewing as Art and Political Action with Shams el-Din Rogers Ep. #142: Values Based Spending and Making with Sham el-Din Rogers Ep. #153: The Provenance of Materials and Techniques - Shams with Allie Davies I also highly recommend checking out Shams’ episode on Stitch Please: the Black Women Stitch podcast, Ep.#123: Don’t Trash it! Sew it!: Sustainable Creativity with Shams el-Din Rogers. Explore ‘Works in Progress Toronto’ via their website and on Instagram @works.in.progress.to. Instagram based contests that Shams is participating in: #lastsewiststanding created by @miss.taeschli. #whole30fabricchallenge created by @pinkmimosabyjacinta. Textile Museum of Canada is in Toronto and has a truly epic-looking shop! Shams recently bought some issues of Tauko magazine. Check out two blog posts I made including round-ups of free kid’s patterns: My Favourite Free Children’s Sewing Patterns  Fab Free Kids’ Patterns for 6 and Up. Listen to the episodes Shams referenced about sewing for and with kids: Ep.#11: Kids Vs. Sewing  Ep.#33: Encouraging Kids to Sew I use the the basic version of the Trello app to catalogue and manage my fabric stash and project ideas. Shams’ goal is based on the 2-door Pax wardrobes made by Ikea.

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• #191: Stitch it, Don’t Ditch it with Mary Morton & Jeanna Wigger

  A new mending book is about to land in bookshops around the globe, and it’s something really special. It’s the creation of regular CYT guest and mending expert, Jeanna Wigger, and super experienced mending volunteer and organiser, Mary Morton. In this episode, we’re going to hear all about how this excellent book came to be written by two women who had never even met each other, and exactly what makes ‘Stitch it, Don’t Ditch it’ so significant in the mending book genre. Support the podcast over on Patreon! Jeanna Wigger can be found @thepeoplesmending on Instagram. Jeanna also has an excellent Substack. Mary Morton can be found @edinburghstreetstitchers and @mvm13 on Instagram Listen to my previous conversations with Jeanna: Ep. #115: Winter of Care and Repair with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #132: A Season of Mending with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #135: How to Triage Your Mends with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #163: How to Effect Change This Winter with Jeanna Wigger Ep. #190: The Four Tendencies and Sewing with Jeanna, Kim & Lise  Mary volunteers at the Shrub Coop, a ZW charity based in Edinburgh, Scotland (@shrubcoop on Instagram). Find and pre-order their new book, ‘Stitch it, Don't Ditch it’: Suzi Warren is the creator of the Street Stitching movement: Mary was a guest of the long running Woman´s Hour BBC radio show. Mary and Jeanna regularly recommend the ‘Repair What You Wear’ website to would-be menders. Also @RepairWhatYouWear on YouTube. They made the following videos mentioned in the episode: A Guide to Teaching Mending Skills How to thread a needle (right handed) How to thread a needle (left handed)

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